GMC trucks and SUVs are famously hard-working: big alternators, powerful stereos, seat heaters, towing packages, and in many trims, auto stop-start. All of that demands the right battery chemistry, the right physical group size, and enough Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) to turn over a hot V8 after towing or a turbo 4-cylinder on a winter morning. This guide walks you through what fits most GMC models, when you absolutely need AGM instead of a basic flooded battery, how much you should expect to pay, and how to install and care for it so you’re not stranded with a dead dash and a locked tailgate.

When you’re price-checking, you can jump straight to live listings for common GMC group sizes like Group 48 / H6 AGM, Group 94R / H7 AGM, and Group 24F flooded.

Table of Contents

Quick Picks for GMC Owners (By Use Case)

  • Daily driver / light commute, no auto stop-start: A high-quality Flooded or EFB battery that matches the OEM group size (many GMC crossovers and older trucks use Group 48/H6, 24F, or 34/78). Shop Group 48 / H6 or Group 24F. ~$140–$220 flooded, $170–$260 EFB
  • Late-model GMC with auto stop-start / heavy electronics: AGM is strongly recommended because it handles repeated engine restarts and high accessory draw. Many newer Sierra, Yukon, and Acadia trims use H6 (Group 48) or H7 (Group 94R). Browse Group 94R / H7 AGM and Group 48 / H6 AGM. ~$190–$320
  • Premium audio, winter camping, tailgating, short-trip usage: AGM for better deep-cycle tolerance, faster recharge, and vibration resistance (great for Sierra AT4, Yukon Denali, Hummer EV auxiliary batteries, etc.). See AGM truck batteries. ~$220–$350
  • Hot climate / towing / off-road (AT4, Canyon AT4X, etc.): Look for high Reserve Capacity (RC) and rugged case design. EFB or AGM handles heat and vibration better than budget flooded. Compare EFB truck batteries.
  • Cold climate / remote winter starting: Prioritize higher CCA. AGM chemistry typically cranks stronger in the cold and accepts charge faster after a cold start. High-CCA AGM.
  • Older GMC trucks/SUVs (pre-auto-stop, like classic Sierra/Yukon 5.3L and 6.0L): Group 34/78 dual-terminal or Group 24F flooded still works great, but an AGM upgrade improves durability if you run winches/lights. Shop Group 34/78 AGM. ~$180–$260

Top Battery Types for GMC (What to Choose & Why)

Type Best For Why It Matters Price Range Shop
Flooded Lead-Acid Older GMC Sierra / Yukon without stop-start, light electrical load Lowest upfront cost, adequate CCA if you buy a quality brand. Needs occasional voltage checks. ~$120–$200 Group 24F flooded
EFB (Enhanced Flooded Battery) Mid-spec GMC SUVs and trucks that idle in traffic with A/C, some light-duty stop-start systems Stronger internal plates vs standard flooded. Better recharge rate and heat tolerance. A good middle ground if AGM feels too pricey. ~$160–$260 See EFB options
AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) Denali / AT4 / off-road / tow packages / start-stop / high-output alternators / short-trip city driving Spill-proof, vibration resistant, deep-discharge tolerant, high CCA, faster recovery after heavy accessory use. Ideal for modern GMC electrical systems. ~$190–$350 Group 48 AGM / 94R AGM
Dual / Auxiliary (12V support battery) Vehicles with secondary battery for accessories (some newer Sierra/Yukon, off-road light builds, camper shells) Lets you power winches, fridges, light bars, or campsite in Accessory mode without killing the main starting battery. ~$120–$250 each Aux/AGM picks

GMC Model-Specific Buying Tips

  • GMC Sierra 1500 / 2500 / 3500 (gas V8 & Duramax diesel): Most trims use midsize European-style cases like Group 48 (H6) or larger Group 94R (H7). Heavy-duty diesel may run dual batteries. Upgrading to AGM is smart if you tow, plow, or run aftermarket lighting. Expect ~850+ CCA. $200–$320 AGM. See 94R / H7 truck AGM.
  • GMC Yukon / Yukon XL: Full-size SUV electronics (rear entertainment, power tailgate, seat heaters in all 3 rows) demand both high Reserve Capacity and good recharge acceptance. Group 94R/H7 or 48/H6 AGM is common in newer Yukons, and upgrading is worth it even if your original battery was EFB. $220–$330. Browse H7 AGM SUV batteries.
  • GMC Acadia: Mid-size crossover, V6 or turbo 4. Many Acadias use Group 48/H6. Auto stop-start trims really should stay AGM/EFB. Avoid downgrading to a cheap flooded battery or you’ll get repeated low-voltage alerts. $180–$260+. Check Group 48 H6 AGM.
  • GMC Terrain: Compact SUV, smaller engine but still lots of electronics (ADAS, infotainment, heated features). Often uses Group 48/H6 in recent years. If you live in a cold climate, choose the highest CCA AGM you can afford in that size. $190–$260. See H6 AGM listings.
  • GMC Canyon (mid-size pickup): Canyon owners add light bars, winches, and bed power for camping. That’s classic AGM territory. Many trims take Group 48/H6 or 94R/H7 depending on engine and model year. Aim for high vibration resistance if you off-road. $200–$300. Compare off-road AGM truck batteries.
  • Older GMC (Envoy, Jimmy, Sonoma, early Yukon/Sierra GMT800 era): These often accept Group 24F, 34, or 34/78 dual-terminal. You can absolutely run a premium AGM in those older trucks/SUVs for better reliability, especially if you’ve added aftermarket audio. $150–$240. Shop Group 34/78 AGM.

GMC Battery Fitment Cheat Sheet (Most-Common Sizes)

GMC Model (Typical, Recent Years) Common Group Size Chemistry Recommendation Notes Shop Size
Sierra 1500 (gas) 48 / H6 AGM or EFB High electrical load, some trims have stop-start H6 / 48 AGM
Sierra HD (2500/3500 diesel) 94R / H7 (often dual) AGM strongly suggested Dual-battery setups are common for Duramax diesels 94R / H7 AGM
Yukon / Yukon XL 94R / H7 or 48 / H6 AGM Supports entertainment systems, HVAC load at idle Shop H7 AGM
Acadia 48 / H6 EFB or AGM Do not downgrade if equipped with stop-start 48 / H6 EFB
Terrain 48 / H6 AGM (cold climates) or EFB Turbo 4-cyl likes strong CCA H6 AGM
Canyon 48 / H6 or 94R / H7 AGM (off-road/towing) Upgrade if you add light bars, fridge, winch See off-road AGM
Older GMC (Envoy, Jimmy, Sonoma, early Yukon/Sierra) 24F, 34, or 34/78 Flooded (budget) or AGM (best) AGM helps if you have aftermarket subs / lights 34/78 AGM

Spec Targets: CCA, RC, and Warranty

CCA: Cold Cranking Amps RC: Reserve Capacity Tech: Flooded / EFB / AGM

  • CCA: Match or beat the factory CCA spec, especially for V8 and diesel GMC engines. In real winter use, +50 to +100 CCA headroom is smart.
  • RC (Reserve Capacity): Higher RC means your Yukon or Sierra can run blower motors, heated seats, trailer brake module, and headlights at idle without dipping voltage too fast in traffic.
  • Technology: If your GMC shipped with EFB or AGM (common with stop-start), do not downgrade to generic flooded. You’ll stress the alternator and may trigger battery/charging warnings.
  • Warranty: Aim for at least 36 months free replacement (or local equivalent). Premium AGMs often advertise 3–4 years.
  • Terminal orientation / hold-down: GMC trucks usually use side/top combo or European top-post styles (H6/H7). Always match polarity and mounting lip, or the cables won’t reach.

Best Car Battery Brands for GMC & Where-to-Buy

Brand / Line Why GMC Owners Like It Typical Tech Good For Shop
ACDelco Gold / Professional OEM supplier for GM/GMC. Correct venting, sensor compatibility, and sizing for H6/H7. EFB & AGM Direct-fit, no drama with battery monitoring systems ACDelco H6 AGM
Optima (RedTop / YellowTop) Spiral-cell AGM, famous for vibration resistance and high burst current. Great for off-road Canyon/Sierra builds and accessory loads. AGM (deep-cycle capable on YellowTop) Winches, lights, overlanding, tailgating Optima 34/78
Odyssey / NorthStar style premium AGM Very high CCA, very high RC. Tolerates repeated deep discharges and fast recharge. Popular with emergency upfitters and tow rigs. AGM Heavy towing, snowplow duty, camping power Odyssey 94R AGM
DieHard Platinum / AGM Strong warranty, widely available in H6/H7 sizes, good balance of price and performance. AGM Family SUVs (Acadia, Yukon) that do school runs + road trips DieHard H7
  • Buy online, pick up in-store: This avoids getting a dusty, old-stock battery. You also get instant core return credit (you usually get $10–$25 back when you hand in your old battery).
  • Amazon: Good for checking fitment by year/engine and comparing AGM vs EFB pricing fast. You can start with GMC Group 48 batteries or Yukon H7 AGM.
  • Local parts store / dealer: Dealer batteries often cost more, but you’re guaranteed OE spec and they’ll register/reset the battery monitor if needed on newer GMC models.

How to Check Freshness & Authenticity

  • Check the date code sticker/etch. Batteries older than ~3-4 months sitting on a shelf are less desirable for AGM and stop-start vehicles.
  • Look for tamper-evident caps and intact case molding. No bulges, no cracks, no acid residue.
  • Branding should match the label, not a sloppy sticker over a generic case. Counterfeits usually have off-center or bubbled labels.
  • Voltage test at rest: a healthy, fully charged AGM should read around 12.7V–12.9V with no load.

Car Battery Warranty Tips

  • Free-replacement period matters more than pro-rated marketing talk. A “36-month free replacement” is generally solid.
  • Keep your receipt or digital order confirmation in your glovebox or phone. Most chains will not honor without proof.
  • If your GMC has chronic parasitic draw (dash cams, trackers, etc.), expect shorter battery life. Warranty won’t cover abuse or always-on accessories.
  • For dual-battery diesel setups, replace in pairs. Mixing an old weak battery with a brand-new one can kill the new one early—and can void coverage.

GMC Car Battery Installation Guide (DIY or Shop)

  1. Save radio / seat memory if needed. Some owners plug in a 12V memory saver through the OBD-II port or cigarette lighter so modules don’t lose settings.
  2. Shut off the vehicle, pop the hood (or rear compartment, on models with trunk/under-seat batteries). Let the engine bay cool if you were just towing or hauling.
  3. Locate the battery and identify the terminals. On many GMC trucks, the main battery is under the hood on the passenger side with clearly marked positive (+, often red) and negative (-, often black) posts or side terminals.
  4. Disconnect negative (-) first. Loosen the clamp and move the cable away so it cannot snap back to the terminal.
  5. Disconnect positive (+) second. Keep tools from touching metal bodywork while contacting the positive terminal—shorting can weld a wrench instantly.
  6. Remove any hold-down brackets or crossbars and lift the old battery straight up. These are heavy; use both hands and proper back/leg position.
  7. Drop in the new battery in the exact same orientation. Make sure the vent hose (if equipped) is connected and the battery sits flat in the tray so vibration won’t crack it.
  8. Reconnect positive (+) first, then negative (-). Tighten snugly but don’t overtighten soft lead posts.
  9. Reinstall hold-downs and confirm the cables aren’t rubbing on sharp metal.
  10. Start the engine. Watch for charging-system or battery-warning lights on the dash. On late-model GMC with battery sensors, you may need to perform a battery reset/registration using a scan tool or ask a dealer/parts store to do it.

GMC Car Battery Maintenance & Longevity

  • Drive long enough to recharge. Lots of ultra-short trips in a Yukon or Terrain (especially with heated seats, HVAC, stereo blasting) means the alternator never gets to top off the battery. Add a 20–30 min highway run at least weekly when possible.
  • Clean terminals. White/green crust means corrosion. Disconnect and scrub with a battery brush and baking-soda/water mix, then dry and reattach.
  • Secure the battery. Off-roading a Canyon or Sierra with a loose battery will beat plates to death. Always run the factory hold-down or an upgraded off-road clamp.
  • Use a smart charger/maintainer. If your GMC sits (RV towing behind a camper, winter storage), float-charge it with an AGM-compatible smart maintainer. See AGM battery maintainers.
  • Watch parasitic draws. Aftermarket dash cams, bed LEDs, or liftgate LEDs wired always-hot can drain the truck in ~2–3 days. Add a fuse tap to switched power or install a low-voltage cutoff.

Signs You Need a New Battery

  • Slow crank, especially first start of the morning or after fueling.
  • Random “Service Battery Charging System” or battery light flickers on the cluster.
  • Infotainment glitches, dim HUD/cluster, seat memory resets after parking overnight.
  • Multimeter reads below ~12.2V after sitting 12+ hours with everything off (for AGM). That’s roughly 50% state of charge.
  • Visible case swelling or a sulfur/rotten-egg smell after a long drive. Replace immediately—overcharging or internal failure.

Contact GMC Customer Service & Support

Factory Support: GMC’s official support line and live chat can confirm the correct OEM group size, cold-crank spec, and whether your trim requires battery registration after replacement. You can reach GMC Customer Assistance via the official GMC owner website (search “GMC Owner Center”) or by calling the regional GMC Customer Assistance phone number listed in your owner’s manual.

Dealer / Service Department: Your local GMC dealer can test CCA for free or low cost, install an AGM that matches OE specs, and reset the Battery Management System (BMS) on newer stop-start trucks and SUVs.

Owner Resources: For tow/haul packages, snowplow prep, or dual-battery diesel setups, ask specifically for the upfitter or towing electrical section of the service manual. Many GMC dealers will print or email that page if you ask.

GMC Customer Support | Find a GMC Dealer | GMC Owner Center (manuals & diagnostics)

GMC Car Battery FAQs

Can I upgrade from a standard flooded battery to AGM in my GMC?
Yes, in most GMC trucks and SUVs, upgrading to AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) is not only allowed, it’s usually an improvement. AGM batteries handle higher electrical demand (LED lighting, heated seats, towing electronics, infotainment), resist vibration better (useful in trucks), and recharge more efficiently. As a rule: you can go from flooded → AGM, but you should not downgrade from AGM → basic flooded on trims with start-stop, high-accessory load, or advanced battery monitoring.

Do I need a special battery for Auto Stop/Start in my GMC?
If your GMC has Auto Stop/Start (common on newer Sierra, Yukon, Terrain, etc.), you should be running at least EFB (Enhanced Flooded Battery) or AGM. These chemistries are built to handle frequent engine restarts and repeated partial discharge. Dropping in a cheap standard flooded battery can shorten lifespan quickly, trigger battery warning messages, or cause weak restarts at traffic lights.

How long should a GMC car battery last?
Most GMC batteries last around 3–5 years in normal use. Heavy accessory draw (trailering cameras, aftermarket audio, winches), extreme summer heat, or lots of short trips where the alternator can’t fully recharge the battery can pull that closer to 2–3 years. Highway-driven GMCs that get long recharge cycles and aren’t exposed to extreme heat or deep discharge can sometimes see 5+ years out of a high-quality AGM.

How much is a GMC car battery?
Expect roughly $120–$190 for a standard flooded Group 48 / Group 94R style battery in smaller GMC crossovers, about $160–$250 for EFB in models with Auto Stop/Start, and about $200–$350 for premium AGM in higher-load applications like Sierra / Yukon with lots of electronics or towing packages. Larger case sizes with higher reserve capacity and higher Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) sit at the upper end of that range.

What size battery does my GMC need?
You should match the OEM group size (for example H6 / Group 48, H7 / Group 94R, etc.), terminal orientation, and minimum Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) listed in your owner’s manual or printed on the current battery label. Full-size GMC trucks and SUVs often need higher CCA and higher Reserve Capacity because of larger engines and power-hungry accessories, so don’t downsize just because a smaller battery “fits.”

When should I replace the battery instead of just recharging it?
Replace (not revive) if you’re seeing slow crank in the morning, dim interior lights or flickering infotainment on startup, repeated “Low Battery” or “Service Battery Charging System” style warnings, or voltage that keeps falling under ~12.4V after a full-length drive. Also replace if the battery is older than ~4 years and has needed a jump more than once. At that point, it’s cheaper and more reliable to install a fresh unit than to gamble on a failing one.

Does warranty matter when choosing a GMC battery?
Yes. Look for a strong free-replacement period (often 36+ months on good AGM truck/SUV batteries) rather than only pro-rated coverage. A better warranty usually signals thicker internal plates, better vibration resistance (important for trucks that see off-road or towing), and higher cycle life for vehicles with Auto Stop/Start and a lot of accessory load.

Bottom Line: Match the correct physical group size (H6 / 48, H7 / 94R, 24F, 34/78, etc.), meet or beat GMC’s CCA spec, and never downgrade chemistry on a stop-start truck or SUV. For most late-model Sierra, Yukon, Terrain, Acadia, and Canyon owners, that means paying a little extra for a quality AGM. Yes, it costs more up front—but it resists heat, vibration, winch pulls, tailgates, camping fridges, and school-dropoff stop-start punishment far better than a bargain flooded battery. When in doubt, choose AGM in the correct group size and look for a 3+ year free-replacement warranty. See H6 AGM picks and H7 AGM best sellers.
Best Car Battery for GMC – Top Picks for Every Model